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发表于 2008-4-22 21:42
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原帖由 jswzy 于 2008-4-21 22:38 发表 
看糊涂下,请问所搭的最终版本的电路图?
here is one that probably works.
R11/R10 is replaced with a 10K (or 1K) pot. this pot determines the output voltage.
R9 determines the the input impedance. anything from 4.7k to 47k will work. a higher value resistor makes the amp suspect to interference and a lower value resistor here makes the amp hard to drive.
C6, together with R11/R10, determines the turn-on thump. anything from 1u to 4.7u will work. but can be as high as 110u. a larger capacitor here causes longer turn-on thump but minimizes power supply hum.
R3 determines Q1's idle current, and is "optional". I like to run my input stage at about 1ma each. depending on your transistors, you can run it hoter or cooler. the value of R3 can be from 1.1K (4ma idle current for Q1) to 10k (.4ma idle current for Q1). as designed, the input transistor runs at 1ma. a higher value R3 reduces thermal noise in the input transistor.
R5/R4 determines the gain (~10x in this case). C2 is the DC blocking cap.
R1 is a 1k (or 2k, if you intend to run the amp at higher voltage) pot. it controls the idle current in the mosfets.
R14 / R2 should be in the 110ohm to 470ohm range. R2 determines Q3's idle current and should be between 110ohm (30ma idle current for Q3) - 470ohm (8ma idle current for Q3). As designed, Q3 idles at about 15ma. the idle current of Q3 is determined by what kind of mosfets you drive. for larger power mosfet (IRFP140 or IRF540 for example), their gate capacitance is typically 2200pf - 3300pf. and at 20khz their gate current is about 1ma. you want Q3's idle current to be at least 10x of that.
R7/R13 are the gate stoppers. They are sized, again, based on the gate capacitance of the output devices, and are typically in the 47ohm - 470ohm range. for mosfets with higher gate capacitance, you want to use a bigger gate stopper but a bigger gate stopper limits bandwidth of the amp. I typically use a gate stopper in the 220 - 330ohm range and try to reduce it from there.
R8 / R12 are RE (or RS) resistors, for improved thermal stability. they can be from 0.1ohm - 1ohm.
C5 is an optional bulk capacitor. 22uf - 110uf will be good and you can parallel it with a 0.01uf - 0.1uf tantalum or polyester cap.
Q1: any small signal PNP transistor. it can either BJT or a P-channel small signal mosfet. if you use a p-channel mosfet, put in that 1k resistor (in green) to its gate.
Q3: any medium power NPN transistor (or N-channel mosfet). MJE1503x would be a good choice, as is IRF510 (my favorite) or FQA1n60 from fairchild (another of my favorite).
M3/M4: any power mosfets. like IRF540 (good for anything less than 20w) or IRfP140 for bigger amps.
the amp is typically quite stable and does not require a miller capacitor or a zobel network but having a zobel network is a good idle in general.
adjustment procedures:
a) once you finish soldering the amp, short the input. connect the ground to your power supply, and connect the positive rail to your power supply via a large power resistor (22ohm 10w for example).
b) adjust R10/R11 to set the middle point voltage to be roughly 1/2 of power supply. Adjust R1 so that the amp drops about 10mv on R8/R12 (idling at about 40ma).
c) short the power resistor so your amp sees full supply voltage. adjust R1 again so that the amp drops about 25mv on R8/R12 (idling at about 100 - 120ma).
by adjusting R1, you can easily control the idle current, and make the amp from Class A to Class AB easily. what I have found is that idling the amp at 100ma gives pretty good sound quality and idling it above 150ma does not give any improvement in sound quality. right now, I am running mine at 75ma (or 15mv voltage drop on R8/R12).
Hope it helps. |
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